The evolution of Brussels sprouts: From kids’ worst nightmare to menu mainstay

There was a time, not long ago, that Brussels sprouts were commonly considered yucky – something to be avoided. Today, they’re all the rage. What happened?

How did Brussels sprouts evolve from an outcast to a welcome addition to many meals?

There are a couple of theories.

Mark Munger, vice president of sales and marketing for Los Angeles-based 4Earth Farms, put it bluntly: Yesterday’s Brussels sprouts simply were “not good,” he said.

Today’s lower-acid varieties are a vast improvement.

“The varieties we have now actually have great flavor,” he said.

It also helps that people have learned to cook them in more innovative ways.

It’s an easy-to-prepare, versatile veggie, he said, that can be halved, shredded, roasted, steamed or eaten raw in a salad.

Improved varieties may play a role in the newfound popularity of Brussels sprouts, said Diana McClean, marketing director for Castroville, Calif.-based Ocean Mist Farms.

She gives more credit, however, to “the evolution of culinary in regards to flavor trends and preparation method changes over the generations.”

With the COVID-19 pandemic, which has more people cooking their own meals, consumers are experimenting with new preparation methods and recipes at home, and that includes Brussels sprouts, she said.

Kaleigh McMordie, registered dietitian and creator of the food blog Lively Table, agreed.

“I do think that people have figured out the proper cooking methods to make Brussels sprouts taste good,” she said. “There aren't many vegetables that taste good boiled to mush, which is how I remember – unwillingly – eating Brussels sprouts as a kid.”

But when they’re roasted, lightly sautéed or shaved into a salad with a delicious dressing, Brussels sprouts deserve the attention they’re getting, she said.

People also may discover deliciously prepared Brussels sprouts at local eateries, McClean noted. “Oftentimes, consumers try a new food or dish in a restaurant and then will explore with that same food at home,” she said.

Named after the capital of Belgium, where they may have first been cultivated, Brussels sprouts look like tiny heads of cabbage, said Tom Byrne, president of Salinas, Calif.-based Growers Express, which markets the Green Giant Fresh brand.

“The resemblance should come as no surprise, since both belong to the same botanical family,” he said.

Unlike most fruits and vegetables, Brussels sprouts don’t need to ripen before they’re cooked or eaten, he said.

“Chock full of healthy nutrients, vitamins and minerals, Brussels sprouts’ many health benefits are far-reaching,” Byrne said.

Indeed, Brussels sprouts are a healthy option -- high in fiber and vitamins C and K, McMordie said.

“They are also a good source of antioxidants, and in particular a phytonutrient called sulphoraphane that could be protective against certain cancers, neurodegenerative diseases and heart disease,” she said.

Cruciferous vegetables like Brussels sprouts also have anti-inflammatory properties.

“Because stress can lead to inflammation, anti-inflammatory foods can be helpful in times of high stress, like the current pandemic,” McMordie said.

Brussels sprouts are one of the super seven vegetables, said Will McCarthy, commodity manager at Beachside Produce, Guadalupe, Calif.

They’re a good fall cooking vegetable, he said, but with many restaurants closed or operating at reduced capacity, and with holiday parties in doubt, he’s hoping to keep movement going.

“We are definitely going to the retailers and partners and promoting,” he said. “We do have the production and the acreage.”

But as tasty and nutritious as they may be, Brussels sprouts aren’t always easy to raise.

“The biggest challenge when growing Brussels sprouts, not unlike many crops, is in managing the insect pressure and mildew, particularly in spring and early summer,” Byrne said. “Our growing partners do a phenomenal job and have decades of expertise, which helps produce the highest-quality products that consumers can rely on under the Green Giant Fresh brand.”

Another challenge is managing a steady supply flow during the transition from the conclusion of the northern Mexico crop to the start of the central California season, he said.

Ocean Mist Farms sources Brussels sprouts from Coachella, Calif., from December to March; from Castroville from June to January; from Guanajuato, Mexico, from April to June; and from Baja California from December to June, McClean said.

Sales of Brussels sprouts have trended upward in the past five years, though 2020 has stayed flat so far, she said.

Both dollar and volume sales are trending upward with 8% and 7% compounded annual growth respectively, she said.

She expected that trend to continue.

“With the continued rise of plant-based eating and vegetables moving to the center of the plate, Brussels sprouts can be used beyond the traditional side dish,” McClean said.

Brussels sprouts are the largest single item that 4Earth Farms handles, Munger said.

“We’ve quietly been growing our share of the Brussels sprouts deal,” he said.

For the past two years, the company has had “a very steady, consistent, high-quality, year-round organic and conventional Brussels sprouts program,” he said,

Munger expects demand to continue to grow.

“It’s hard to know how big it is going to get,” he said. “It’s such a dynamic item.”